Just for fun: The layers of a map
Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 8:29 pm
Since it got mentioned, and sicne the is the last time I will be doing game maps *sniff*, for anyone's interest here's what goes in to a combat map. If I've done anythign clever, feel free to borrow it. More likely, if I've done anything stupidly, feel free to point out a better way for whenever the next time is!
Maps:
There are two versions, the full .psp paintshop file with all the layers separate, and then each round I save a .jpg version aswell that automatically collapses the layers to one.
Layer 1: Background
The basic background of the room. Sometimes generated from a CSBwin map, sometimes just drawn freehand from basic shapes. It's usually best when constructing these to keep the map size small to increase the accuracy of moving things around, drawing lines, etc.
Layer 2: The grid
For some CSBwin maps, it is simply a secod set of lines to turn the 10 foot squares to 5 foot squares, in some recent maps this had been a chessboard effect (very easy with a tiny image size). The trick of the former is to just draw lots of lines then trim them as requires to the image below. The trick of the later is to pick two neutral colours that won't overwhelm the map itself. For the former, a separate layer allows for ease of trimming the lines if walls get in the way. For the later, as a separate layer you can increase the transparency to take the eye away from it.
Layer 3: Surroundings
All the solid parts like false walls, pillars, etc that are part of the dungeon walls/floor but would look strange to have a grid over the top.
Layer 4: Furniture
All the smaller items just like the surroundings, but are more likely to be moved. It's easier for them to be in their own layer just in case they start to interact with the more solid dungeon elements that shouldn't move. Kinda arbitrary if this is a separate layer or not
Layer 5: Light
I add a yellow filled circle for every light source for the bright radius only. If I'm feeling nice, I then cut away anything there light would be blocked (so for example the pillars create a shadow, so I did a rough cut away. You can then increase the transparency (make it 100% transparent if you like!) to light the main area.
Layer 6: Dim light
I then do a larger set of black circles in a new layer for the radius of the dim light. Once more, if I've feeling nice I can cut away anything that would block the light (such as the doors, etc. Note the pillars, etc that would be in bright light I allow to then have dim light behind them. The convoluted but best thing to do next is then to go back to layer 5, select all the yellow parts, come back to layer 6 so the outline of them remains and then delete that outline from the black. Sounds complicated, but gives a better effect than stacking the circles. Again,add transparency - though less than the brightness layer (not too much!)
Layer 7: Darkness
Flood filled with black, and then then layer 5/6 outlines cut out of it. I've foudn that not making it fully transparent is more satisfying that blacking out anything not in line of sight, but that's really up to the GM and players to say
Layer 8: Dead and downed
Best to have a separate layer for them, since players can stand on top of those prone, unconscious, or dead. I also tend to add transparency just to empasize someone out of the fight.
Layer 9: Enemies
I like to separate player and enemy active tokens frm each other. For one thing they tend to be interacting, and so it's nice to be able to overlap them and know you can pull them apart again. for another, it's easy to isolate this layer to recall how many enemies you need to move around!
Layer 10: Players
The layer for big damn heros and their lesser NPC allies
Layer 11: Initiative:
Best to be a separate layer at the top of the stack, so you can move thigns around without
Layer 12: Overlay grid:
Sometimes part of the initiative layer if it's just the letters/numbers, I separated it out this time in order to add some transparency. I also made the layer have the 'difference' property, whcih means it colours itself to the difference between itself and the colours below. WHich is why it can be seen on both a bright and dark backing.
I also sometimes have a dump layer I can put items in to that becomes invisible when saying the .jog. It's also a good layer to write temporary notes and status effects in to for my eyes only. For that reason, I tend to have it as the highest layer so I can put scores throuh those that have acted, etc. or see items that are open./closed (liek a fake wall that has disappeared)
Anyway, so that's the anatomy of one of these combat maps. Or rather, what it's evolved in to! Check out the original start maps to remember what it used to look like
Maps:
There are two versions, the full .psp paintshop file with all the layers separate, and then each round I save a .jpg version aswell that automatically collapses the layers to one.
Layer 1: Background
The basic background of the room. Sometimes generated from a CSBwin map, sometimes just drawn freehand from basic shapes. It's usually best when constructing these to keep the map size small to increase the accuracy of moving things around, drawing lines, etc.
Layer 2: The grid
For some CSBwin maps, it is simply a secod set of lines to turn the 10 foot squares to 5 foot squares, in some recent maps this had been a chessboard effect (very easy with a tiny image size). The trick of the former is to just draw lots of lines then trim them as requires to the image below. The trick of the later is to pick two neutral colours that won't overwhelm the map itself. For the former, a separate layer allows for ease of trimming the lines if walls get in the way. For the later, as a separate layer you can increase the transparency to take the eye away from it.
Layer 3: Surroundings
All the solid parts like false walls, pillars, etc that are part of the dungeon walls/floor but would look strange to have a grid over the top.
Layer 4: Furniture
All the smaller items just like the surroundings, but are more likely to be moved. It's easier for them to be in their own layer just in case they start to interact with the more solid dungeon elements that shouldn't move. Kinda arbitrary if this is a separate layer or not
Layer 5: Light
I add a yellow filled circle for every light source for the bright radius only. If I'm feeling nice, I then cut away anything there light would be blocked (so for example the pillars create a shadow, so I did a rough cut away. You can then increase the transparency (make it 100% transparent if you like!) to light the main area.
Layer 6: Dim light
I then do a larger set of black circles in a new layer for the radius of the dim light. Once more, if I've feeling nice I can cut away anything that would block the light (such as the doors, etc. Note the pillars, etc that would be in bright light I allow to then have dim light behind them. The convoluted but best thing to do next is then to go back to layer 5, select all the yellow parts, come back to layer 6 so the outline of them remains and then delete that outline from the black. Sounds complicated, but gives a better effect than stacking the circles. Again,add transparency - though less than the brightness layer (not too much!)
Layer 7: Darkness
Flood filled with black, and then then layer 5/6 outlines cut out of it. I've foudn that not making it fully transparent is more satisfying that blacking out anything not in line of sight, but that's really up to the GM and players to say
Layer 8: Dead and downed
Best to have a separate layer for them, since players can stand on top of those prone, unconscious, or dead. I also tend to add transparency just to empasize someone out of the fight.
Layer 9: Enemies
I like to separate player and enemy active tokens frm each other. For one thing they tend to be interacting, and so it's nice to be able to overlap them and know you can pull them apart again. for another, it's easy to isolate this layer to recall how many enemies you need to move around!
Layer 10: Players
The layer for big damn heros and their lesser NPC allies
Layer 11: Initiative:
Best to be a separate layer at the top of the stack, so you can move thigns around without
Layer 12: Overlay grid:
Sometimes part of the initiative layer if it's just the letters/numbers, I separated it out this time in order to add some transparency. I also made the layer have the 'difference' property, whcih means it colours itself to the difference between itself and the colours below. WHich is why it can be seen on both a bright and dark backing.
I also sometimes have a dump layer I can put items in to that becomes invisible when saying the .jog. It's also a good layer to write temporary notes and status effects in to for my eyes only. For that reason, I tend to have it as the highest layer so I can put scores throuh those that have acted, etc. or see items that are open./closed (liek a fake wall that has disappeared)
Anyway, so that's the anatomy of one of these combat maps. Or rather, what it's evolved in to! Check out the original start maps to remember what it used to look like